MOUNT EVEREST: Leif Whittaker follows in father's footsteps, 47 years later

By Patrick J. Sullivan of the Leader
Posted 5/18/10

Leif Whittaker topped the world's tallest mountain 47 years and 23 days after his father became the first American to do so.

Whittaker, 25, and his climbing partners on the Eddie Bauer First …

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MOUNT EVEREST: Leif Whittaker follows in father's footsteps, 47 years later

Posted

Leif Whittaker topped the world's tallest mountain 47 years and 23 days after his father became the first American to do so.

Whittaker, 25, and his climbing partners on the Eddie Bauer First Ascent team and Rainier Mountaineering Inc., today are returning to base camp after scaling Mount Everest.

Back home in Port Townsend, mother Dianne Roberts and father Jim Whittaker are nothing short of proud, relieved and excited.

"I'm on top of the world," Jim Whittaker said Tuesday morning. "He's been climbing since he was a little boy. It fulfilled a lifelong dream of his. It's wonderful. Awesome. There is something about standing on the highest part of the planet."

The summit "is like a roof," Jim explained, so "when you are on the top, you are on the top." Jim noted that on May 1, 1963 when he summitted, the peak was measured at 29,028 feet.

"Now it's at 29,035 feet so he's got me by 7 feet," he quipped.

Roberts got a call from Leif at about 10:30 p.m. Tuesday in Port Townsend, perhaps three hours after he made the summit. He called from a spot at the 27,000-foot level known as "The Balcony.”

"He sounded good," said Roberts on Monday night, and added that it was a "humbling experience."

Roberts, who has done her fair share of mountaineering, didn't become a nervous mother until she learned the team was spending a second night at 26,000 feet, hoping for a weather window at the summit.

"I spent a night at 26,000 feet myself once without bottled oxygen, and it felt like I was suffocating with a pillow over my head," she said.

Leif, Port Townsend High School Class of 2003, told his mother on the phone the summit attempt "was really, really difficult. They were discouraged the night before because of the weather. And then it cleared for them and it sounds like they had a textbook climb after that."

Some of the team members stayed at the 26,500-foot level to rest and rehydrate. The rest kept descending to the "thick air" at Camp 2, 21,000 feet.

"After being up in the dead zone, you really can feel the air getting thicker as you descend," Jim said.

The Whittakers won't rest easy until the team returns to base camp at 17,500 feet. The most dangerous part of the entire climb is crossing the ice fall between 18,000 and 20,000 feet, Jim noted. But the RMI guides are first-class, and so is the Eddie Bauer First Ascent gear the team wore. Leif Whittaker was a client of Eddie Bauer on this climb, although he is an experienced climber.

It probably will be a few weeks before Leif returns home.

"It isn't like you can say, 'I did that' and jump on a helicopter and be back in Seattle the next day," Roberts said. "It takes a week just to walk out and close camp."

Check the story on ptleader.com for links to websites with summit photos and audio.

First Group Returns to Base Camp

MAY 26, 2010 - 17,575 ft.

Team members Casey, Seth, Michael and Scott have returned to Basecamp after a night at Camp 2. Dave and Leif spent the night at Camp 4 after the summit climb, they are now at Camp 2 (ABC) and will arrive in Basecamp tomorrow.

MAY 25 – South Col & Camp 2

1:47 a.m. PST / 2:30 p.m. UTC

26,500 ft./21,000 ft Mark Tucker at Basecamp:

"It continues to be a nice day and the team is doing well. Upon reaching the Sol Col (26,500') three team members have decided to call it a day. They will spend the afternoon resting and rehydrating before making an early departure tomorrow morning. The rest of the team has decided to continue their descent to sleep in the thick air of Camp Two at 21,000'. We expect to see everyone at Basecamp tomorrow."

MAY 24 – South Col

11:15 p.m. PST / May 25, 2010 12:00 p.m. UTC

26,500 ft Mark Tucker at Basecamp:

"Everybody is at the South Col with all fingers and toes. At these kinds of altitudes, it is just about impossible to keep hydrated. Breathing pure, non-humidified oxygen, along with a limited supply of fluids in your pack, let alone finding time to consume it...you get the picture.

It's all about recovery. First thing you want to do is collapse in the nearest tent, but you need to take care of yourself, the further behind you get the tougher to catch up. We have two support Sherpa at the Col, so all members are greeted with a cup of juice upon arrival. These first couple of hours will be critical if our guys will make the push down to C2 or spend another night at the Col. We have plenty of oxygen at the Col to support another night, but the lower the better.

By 2:00 pm they will decide to stay or go. We will let ya know..."

Party on TOP!

MAY 24- 6:55 p.m. PST / 7:40 a.m. UTC

29,035 ft. Mark Tucker at Basecamp:

Congratulations to the RMI Team! Dave, Leif, Seth, Casey, Michael, Scott, Tendi, Tshering Dorjee, Dawa Jamba, Da Gyldjen, Nima Tenji, Pasang Temba. On top of the world. All are doing well.

A few quick pictures, a look around, then they'll start heading down!

MAY 24 - 6:14 p.m. PST / 6:53 a.m. UTC

29,035 ft.

Mark Tucker at Basecamp:

Seth Waterfall is on the summit of Mount Everest. He has the summit all to himself. It is a bit chilly but he has plenty of oxygen and is feeling good! The rest of the team is at the Hilary step continuing up.

South Summit!

MAY 24 - 5:45 p.m. PST / 6:23 a.m. UTC

28,700+ ft.

Mark Tucker at Basecamp:

Just spoke with Dave via radio he and all others are on the South Summit changing O2 bottles. Some high level clouds keeping it cool so Seth had to get on the move or risk getting too cold, he is now on the Hilary step! Dave reports everyone in good shape.

Almost to South Summit

MAY 24 - 4:05 p.m. PST / 5:20 a.m. UTC

26,000 ft.

Mark Tucker at Basecamp:

Just received a radio call from Seth reporting he is approximately 10 minutes below South Summit. Dave and crew are just a bit behind. Little wind, some high clouds in and out, but overall great conditions.

At the Balcony

MAY 24 - 2:15 p.m. PST / 2:56 a.m. UTC

26,000 ft.

Mark Tucker at Basecamp:

All teams are at the Balcony changing oxygen bottles. The weather report remains calm winds and clear skies.

The next check-in should be in approximately 2 - 3 hours, the South Summit, where I should be able to speak with the team directly.

MAY 24 - GOING FOR IT!

9:30 a.m. PST / 10:15 p.m. UTC

26,000 ft.

We have not been purposely holding out till the bitter end, I promise. You all deserve the final summit push. So lets bring it to you today and tonight. We sure hope that the old adage," good things come to those who wait", comes true.

Tough call last night holding back the summit push, always a tricky situation, but it's looking very promising tonight. Snowed pretty much all day, but now......... not a cloud in the sky, and what a moon! Dave reports a little windy at the Col right now.

I can't guarantee the team will summit, but there is a group of men at the South Col tonight that have done just about all that is possible to have a shot at the top.

I can guarantee.... this RMI group will give Mount Everest the respect she deserves, and will not push harder than seems reasonable.

It's all relative when you subject yourself to some of the most extreme conditions on Earth.

With the support we have from our incredible Sherpa staff, and the wealth of experience our guides bring to this expedition.

No worries mate.

I may even get a few winks in between the dispatches I plan to send throughout the night.

Cheers,

Mark Tucker

MAY 24 - CLEARER WEATHER, SUMMIT ATTEMPT TODAY

Via radio from Basecamp

"Currently, the team is resting at the South Col waiting for the weather to calm so they can launch their final summit push. The original plan was to leave on the evening of the 23rd and summit on the morning of the 24th although weather moved in dropping several inches of snow which fell thru out the night. Because of the weather and limited visibility, the team decided to hold off on the summit push and patiently wait one more night. As of now, spirits and anticipation are high with an afternoon of clearing skies and decreasing snow. If things continue as they are, the team should have a good shot at a successful and safe climb.

On another note, I descended to Basecamp with one of our climbers on the morning of the 23rd in a decision that we felt was best for us. We are both currently down monitoring the radios with full support and wishful thinking for our teammates up high.

If things continue to go well, the team will depart the South Col tonight for an early morning summit. Wish them luck and safe travel!"

Chad Peele

MAY 23 - TEAM REMAINS AT CAMP 4

26,000 ft.

At Camp 4, 12:15 p.m. PDT/ 1:08 a.m. Nepal Time

Our group has continued to evaluate the weather and has now decided to postpone their summit attempt until tomorrow. Spirits remain high and everyone is hoping that the weather looks better tomorrow.

10:15 a.m. PDT/ 11 p.m. Nepal Time

We just heard from our team at Camp Four. They have been watching the weather and have decided to hold tight for a little while and hope for clearer skies. We will let you know when they depart Camp Four.

6:10 a.m. PDT/ 6:55 p.m. Nepal Time

A quick update from Mark Tucker at Basecamp says that the summit team is currently at Camp 4. Everyone is doing well. They have had dinner and hot drinks and are heading for their tents for some sleep before they begin their summit attempt.

We wish them good luck!

MAY 22

Resting at Camp 3, 24,000 feet. Via radio to Basecamp

All is well here on Mount Everest. We have one summit team that is at Camp Three today and another team remaining at Camp Two for an extra rest day. The weather continues to improve and our plan is for everyone to move up one camp tomorrow.

There were many more climbers on the summit today and several teams are in place to make their summit bid tomorrow.

Everyone is doing well and we are excited to be continuing our move uphill tomorrow.

Keep us in your thoughts, wish us well.

Casey & crew

MAY 21

Team at Advanced Basecamp, 21,300 ft.  Via radio from Camp 2.

Hey this is Seth checking-in from Advanced Basecamp (ABC) on Mt Everest with our summit folks.

The whole team is here just settling in for dinner. Everyone is doing great. (Cheers in background)

Tomorrow we plan on tackling the first part of the Lhotse face and spending the night at Camp 3. The weather forecast has been in and out but the last one shows some improvement. So we will plan to leave tomorrow morning in the dark, after one night at Camp 3 we will move up to the South Col and then finally the summit.

On a final note we want to wish our Basecamp Manager, Mark Tucker, a Happy Birthday! (Cheers in the background). Happy Birthday Tuck!

That is it from Advanced Basecamp

MAY 20

Report filed May 20, via radio from Camp 2  at 20,000 plus feet:

"Some snow in the night but it didn't present much of an obstacle to us. Our entire team was up at 3:00 a.m. and walking at around 4:00. We went through the icefall in good time. Casey's group stayed at Camp 1 as planned. Our half of the team went to Camp 2 arriving just after 10:00 a.m. We are excited to be here again, there is a lot of electricity in the air now.

We watched many climbers going to Camp 3 today, and they had to fight through very strong winds. The jet stream is obviously over Mount Everest right now. To our knowledge nobody is at the South Col in position for a summit bid at this moment. It seems as if every team on the mountain is poised for the summit in the next 3 to 4 days.

We are still very interested in the path the storm Laila takes, but our forecast has given us encouragement that it is not headed directly towards us. Tomorrow both teams will be at Camp 2 and hope it will be our last rest day of the trip."

 

MAY 18

Report filed May 18, 2010 by Mark Tucker, basecamp coordinator on Mount Everest, referring to the Rainier Mountaineering Inc., crew:

"Here listening to one of our neighbors celebrating the arrival of their team after a successful summit. What a relief for them after so much time and effort on the mountain. RMI's time will come. We continue gathering all pertinent information about the upper mountain to help us have a smooth summit push. Team members are putting the final touches on gear and charging their internal batteries with care.”