It takes just three primary ingredients to produce the tart, tangy, and delightfully effervescent tonic known as kombucha. Freshly brewed tea creates the base, into which sugar is fully dissolved. Then, the third ingredient, a “SCOBY” or Symbiotic Culture of Bacteria and Yeast, is what transforms sweet tea into the probiotic, antioxidant drink called kombucha. From there, a brewer is limited only by their creativity when crafting flavors by adding fruit, vegetables, herbs, or spices.

Andy Hamm is one such brewmaster and the creator of BluJay Kombucha. He began brewing as a hobby, using a homegrown SCOBY and experimenting with different types of tea and various sugar concentrations. His family encouraged him to try the second fermentation method of adding flavorings after the initial brew. Soon, Hamm had a menu of unique flavors and felt impassioned to make kombucha brewing more than a hobby.

“I was looking for something new to create funds for myself and my family, something that I enjoy doing,” Hamm explained. So he sought a commercial-grade SCOBY, which he found at a monastery on the East Coast that specialized in cultures. “I was looking for a good source,” said , “Because I wanted everything to be as high-quality as I could find.”

Hamm developed his own recipe using jasmine, green, and white peony tea. He wanted a mild base low in caffeine that would lend well to added flavors. With the help of his family, Hamm created the BluJay Kombucha brand, sporting a vibrant logo with two blue jays signifying his daughters, Levyn Blu and Jaden. In 2018, Hamm began vending at the Port Townsend Farmers Market alongside his wife Randell, selling kombucha, kimchi, and fermented hot sauces.

“I used to really experiment through the farmers market,” said Hamm. “I would just make crazy flavors all the time and see what happened.” He tracked what sold and honed his production to nine flavors, including his current best-sellers, ginger raspberry, lavender elderberry, and chili turmeric lime. Hamm formed a solid business plan, invested in larger equipment, and began wholesaling at local stores.

Just as the business seemed to be taking flight, BluJay Kombucha and the entire world were hit with the unforeseeable COVID-19 pandemic. Prices soared, and some products became extremely scarce. “My bottles went up 300%,” Hamm said. “Everything else that I used increased 50%-100%.” In an instant, his entire business plan became obsolete. “I just crumpled it up and threw it in the garbage,” he said.

Hamm wasn’t ready to throw it all away, however. He intended to find out if there was a way to make his business sustainable in a changing economic climate. He enlisted a small business mentor from the SCORE program. He signed up for classes through the Jefferson County Economic Development Council and began attending meetings with the Local Investing Opportunities Network. “My whole business had to restructure,” Hamm explained.

It was out of the question for Hamm to buy lesser-quality ingredients to cut overhead costs. “I still have my original thoughts about it, which is, I use the best stuff I can,” he said. “So I had to make a decision; either close it down or go bigger.” So he scaled up, moving into an 1800-square-foot facility with four 2000-liter brewing tanks, a small office, a walk-in cooler, and room to grow. 

This leap in scale and production created a delicate balance for Hamm to keep things moving in the right direction. “Coming out of the pandemic, I was destitute as far as money was concerned,” Hamm divulged. So, once again, he got creative. He leaned into his culinary experience and added a new arm to his business, BluJay Kitchen. The Kitchen serves scratch-made wraps highlighting regional flavors, like Cape Cleare salmon with local greens, cucumber, and tomato, cradled in Hamm’s handmade flatbread. “It went really well,” said Hamm, “it kind of revitalized me, and it also saved me financially.”

While building up BluJay Kitchen has slowed the growth of BluJay Kombucha, Hamm has experienced an overall positive effect of redirecting his efforts. “One thing I’ve noticed about fermenting,” Hamm said, “Is that the energy you put into it is like a mirror. If I’m not doing good or struggling, next thing you know, I have a bad batch, and it sets me back.” So Hamm continues to prioritize both sides of the business as well as time with his family.

Looking forward, Hamm wants to license a portion of the BluJay Kombucha facility as a commercial kitchen to offer a community resource and a centralized location for all parts of his business. Eventually, he envisions building a tasting room with a complimentary restaurant to showcase his offerings. 

BluJay Kombucha can be found at markets and restaurants around Port Townsend, Fairhaven, and Bellingham. BluJay Kitchen is a mainstay at the Port Townsend Farmers Market on Saturdays and serves out of Lila’s Kitchen on Wednesdays.

Holly Erickson of Jefferson County Farmers Markets presents an inside look at the people, histories, and passions behind the booths of our community’s vibrant marketplaces.