Now in May begins the glorious parade of fruit. Leading the way: local red rhubarb and California strawberries. Soon June and July bring luscious local strawberries and raspberries, segueing into cherries and blueberries and, finally, as the season moves on, August’s gorgeous stone fruit – apricots, peaches, nectarines and plums.

As many a gourmand will tell you, ripe seasonal fruit is so delicious that there’s really no need to gussy it up – it’s tops just as it is. Yet even for food purists, it’s nice to celebrate once in awhile by dressing it up a little, too.

The following recipe for an old classic, strawberry shortcake, is the kind of homey dessert that’s economical, quick to make, and easy to love. It requires only the simplest of ingredients, ones most of us have on hand. It’s as easy to make as the kind out of a box, and has the advantage that it’s not full of strange fats and chemicals of dubious pedigree. Moreover, using whatever fruit is available and a bit of imagination, it’s almost infinitely adaptable. Whichever variation you choose, shortcake is a lovely way to showcase fresh fruit in season.

A few variations to try: Raspberries with almond cream; blueberries with maple syrup and plain whipped cream; apricots, peaches or nectarines with amaretto- or dark rum-flavored whipped cream; plums or pears with candied ginger; and bananas and vanilla-flavored whipped cream. Substitute the whipped cream with plain Greek yogurt and honey, or sweetened Greek yogurt with lemon zest. Substitute the whipped cream with sour cream or tofu sour cream mixed with brown sugar.

Strawberry Shortcake with Almond-Flavored Cream

Serves 8

Preparation time: about 30 minutes

1 tablespoon butter for greasing the pan

For the shortcake:

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cups granulated sugar

3 ounces cream cheese (low fat works fine) cut into 1/2 inch pieces

2 tablespoons unsalted butter cut into 1/2 inch pieces

1 egg, beaten

scant 1/2 cup milk

2 tablespoons butter, melted

For serving:

2 pints sliced fresh strawberries or other sliced fruit, mixed with sugar to taste if the fruit is tart

2 cups heavy whipping cream

1/4 cup confectioner’s sugar

1/2 to 1 teaspoon almond extract

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Grease a springform cake pan with a tablespoon of butter. Set aside.

2. Place flour, baking powder, salt and sugar in bowl or a food processor and blend 20 seconds.

3. Add 2 tablespoons butter and cream cheese and mix or pulse a few times until mixture resembles coarse cornmeal.

4. Beat milk and egg together to combine, then add to the dry ingredients, pulsing just until the dough gathers together.

5. Remove to a floured board and roll and pat gently into two equal rounds to fit the cake pan.

6. Place one round in the pan, paint with melted butter, then place the second round of dough on top of the first. (This step makes it easier to split the finished cake evenly).

7. Bake in middle level of oven about 15 minutes until puffed and top is brown.

8. Remove to a rack to cool.

9. While cake is baking, combine cream, confectioner’s sugar and almond extract in a large bowl and whip until quite stiff. Place in refrigerator to chill until serving.

To serve:

Using a serrated bread knife, cut the cake into 8 portions. Use the knife to gently split each piece horizontally. Fill with fruit, top with a large dollop of cream and more fruit. Serve immediately.